Jennifer Rimando (third from left)

Another woman grader for Robusta bean, Bea Belardo, echoes Jennifer’s remarks. “We were invited to attend the classes, and I am thankful that PCBI recommended us to be included even if the program was initially just for Mindanao,” she recalls. Bea hails from Amadeo, Cavite, which is known for Robusta coffee.

Bea Belardo

While Jennifer took the 2016 Arabica exams and passed, Bea took the Robusta exams in 2017 and passed as well. The certification is good for three years and can be renewed upon passing the calibration exams.

“Now, we give back to our community by sharing what we know with the farmers,” Bea says. The two women recently shared their knowledge on the Q grading of specialty coffee (Arabica) and Fine Robusta at the Ilocos leg of the Women in Coffee training sessions—the fifth in PCBI’s project series with IWCA, DA-GAD Office, ACDI/VOCA, Peace and Equity Foundation, and ECHOsi Foundation.

“We have done five trainings so far, says Chit Juan of PCBI, “and a few more are coming up especially in places without access to trainings because of their low-quantity coffee produce (based on government records) or because they are not known as major coffee areas.” Some areas, like Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao (ARMM, also do not get trainings because international agencies are advised not to go there. “We go to these areas which have coffee but are excluded from the normal planning exercises,” Chit continues.

For the CQI trainings made possible ACDI/VOCA and PCBI, there are women like Jennifer and Bea who chose to give back by sharing with the farmers what they have learned about coffee growing. The trainings were meant to cater to all those who have no knowledge about coffee quality coffee.

“My parents owned rural banks in Silang at the time, and I saw that many farmers were borrowing money for fertilizer, so there was quite a large number of coffee farmers whose livelihoods and growth we were financing. The farmers asked for my help to market their product and sell it at a better price,” Evelyn says. “At the time, we were exporting handicrafts, so my husband and I were well versed in the export business. Fortunately, we were able to find a market abroad for Philippine coffee.”

About 44 years later, Evelyn is still very much involved in the company, now headed by son Michael. Her daughter Carolyn, meanwhile, has ventured into bag making, something that seems unrelated to the family business, until one realizes that the bags from her brands Evrile (after their business Evrile Enterprises) and Sako Store are made from coffee sacks.

“I saw a coffee sack in our factory that was placed on the floor in such a way that sort of looked like a bag and thought, ‘What if I put handles in that?’ It would make a nice bag.” Carol says. “I brought a few sacks home and started drafting, cutting, and sewing. The jute material, when treated properly, makes an excellent bag because of its strength, durability, and neutral tone.”

EVRILE AND SAKO STORE
Evrile was conceptualized to cater to the US market and has been well received because many Americans are environmentally conscious and love good design.

Sako Store, meanwhile, was created to appeal to the Philippine market. It “focuses on using local materials and designs for use in specific areas in the Philippines—like the Baon Bag and Beach/Market Tote,” Carol says. “Our bestseller is the Baon Bag. Filipinos love their baon. I personally bring the Baon Bag to the office every day.

MERGING PASSION AND COMMERCE
Carol has always been creative and interested in fashion, design, branding, and product development. “I am happy that I was able to find a way to bridge coffee with design with Evrile and Sako Store,” she says. “I started out with a basic tote and made different designs, mostly out of experimentation and suggestions from friends. I continued to refine the designs until I reached a point where people who saw them wanted to buy them, and it was then I knew I was ready to launch.”

All of the coffee sacks used are from the Silca roastery. “We source coffee from all over the Philippines and various parts of the world—Vietnam, Laos, Indonesia, Brazil, and more—so I am able to use a wide variety of authentic sack designs,” Carol says.

The inaugural collection is named after the Asuncion children—Jaclyn, Michael, Carolyn and Angelica. “They all reflected our personality to some degree,” she adds.

Evelyn is very supportive of this venture. “I was absolutely on board from the beginning because I’m very much into nature and support products that are made from recycled materials. I really like Evrile for its innovative designs. Plus, I really don’t like using plastic,” she says.

“I am lucky to have a family that is so supportive of my pursuits. I believe the root of this is that was my mom was so adamant about us receiving the best education, so as a result, all her children are independent thinkers. When one of us decides we will do something, the others support because we all respect each other. From the beginning of this venture, I announced what projects I would like to work on with the family business, and that I was going to focus on my bags. The trick with tasks that require you to divide your time is prioritization and communication,” Carol says.

AN INHERITED SENSE OF BUSINESS
For Carol, running Evrile and Sako Store isn’t just about running a fashion brand. “I’ve been grateful that Evrile has been a wonderful vehicle for me to learn more about coffee origins and the nature of the coffee trade. In general, Evrile has given me the opportunity to learn about the process of design and all the wonderful and challenging things that go into starting and running a business,” she says.

She also learned about handling a business from the best teacher—her mom. “My mom started and successfully ran a busines in a very different time, most notably before the Internet, so her business principles are grounded in reality. The best lesson I’ve learned from her is how to manage your cash well,” Carol says.

Carol and Evelyn Asuncion

When asked about the secret to her business success, Evelyn says, “I advise people to just go with the flow. Just go with what is in demand. Don’t get attached to things or ways if it no longer is what the market wants or can handle.”

LOOKING TO THE FUTURE
The Philippine coffee industry is on an upward trajectory, thanks to the thirs wave movement and the efforts of local coffee advocates. “Philippine coffee as an industry will be very lucrative once again, and I can see it flourishing given the proper care by the next generation. I say lucrative once again, both because the local market is growing more sophisticated in its tastes and Filipino food in general is becoming a trend globally as well,” Evelyn says. “Given these two factors, especially the growing local market, I really think Philippine coffee has a bright future.”

Both mother and daughter are optimistic about their endeavors. Carol aims to add more products to spur global growth. I just wrapped up the photoshoot for the next collection—desigs that were largely based on consumer feedbackst wrapped up the photoshoot for the next collection—so I’m excited for that to come out. I’m constantly experimenting with what can be done with the sacks, so just as the sack evolves into a bag, our brand is constantly evolving,” she says.

Evelyn, meanwhile, is excited to see Silca grow and flourish some more within the current local coffee industry. “The local market for coffee is stronger than ever, and we are so thrilled to be able to serve Filipinos quality coffee they deserve that is Philippine-made. By the time most imported products get here they are no longer fresh, so we are happy to lead the way in the brewed coffee movement,” she says.

Through Silca Roasting Company, Evrile, and Sako Store, Evelyn and Carol Asuncion show that there are many ways for a family business—and the family members themselves—to not only thrive long term, but also to find new, tangential markets to serve.

written by Yvette Tan / photos from Evrile and Sako Store 

The kismet meeting of Pacita Juan, President of the International Women’s Coffee Alliance (IWCA) in the Philippines, with then IWCA President Phyllis Johnson started the cause of IWCA Philippines “to get more women to access markets and to let women get the full value of their work in coffee.” Juan said, “It has been a good seven years.”

Chapter heads of IWCA

Another fateful meeting right after was with Princess Kumala Sug-Elardo, the chair of a women-led multipurpose cooperative in Panamao, Sulu. Then there was a gathering of several women leaders passionate about coffee—including café owners Lot Manalo-Tan and Reena Francisco, research professional Josephine Ramos, and coffee processor Christine Abellon—that united and formed the IWCA Philippines chapter.

As beautiful as the coffee process is—from sourcing beans to planting to harvesting to roasting—the IWCA story unfolded beautifully to reveal how a single coffee bean can bring women to work together towards one purpose. Women are at their best when they come together. As a team, like clockwork, exhibited their coffee expertise, the “Women in Coffee” (WIC) brand came into fruition. Imagine each woman as a color in an exquisite tapestry, weaving across one another, either supporting or taking the lead. What a vivid and creative picture it brings!

IWCA-Philippines founders

Juan recalled how each one beautifully wove in together: “We met Ross Alonso, a Robusta farmer from Batangas; Noemi Dado and her daughter Marielle, who wanted to plant coffee in Benguet; Imelda Ahalul-Dagus, who started Dennis Coffee Garden in Zamboanga; Gold Quetulio, who would take care of our membership campaign; and many others who signed up because they believed in our advocacy.”

Imelda Ahalul-Dagus

Every year since 2012, Sug-Elardo has promoted during the harvest season the “Pick Red” campaign in Sulu as Juan and Nicky Matti would do the same in Benguet. The years 2014 to 2016 saw the purchase and transport of jute sacks to the Cordilleras. The coffee beans, in all forms such as parchment, green or roasted, were also purchased for the WIC brand. The brands Sulu Royal Coffee of Sug-Elardo and the Commune of Ros Juan were also launched.

The best part was providing jobs for women and encouraging them to participate in the advocacy with their coffee skills and talents. To continue building the women and the coffee culture, IWCA partnered with other agencies and NGOs; ACDI/VOCA, ECHOsi Foundation, and the DA’s Gender and Development (GAD) Office. Together, IWCA and its partners developed trainings under the “Women in Coffee” banner.

IWCA traveled to Davao, Butuan City, Sagada, Sultan Kudarat, Ilocos Sur, Nueva Vizcaya, Cavite, Ifugao, and Kalinga to communicate coffee about, with and through women. There were quality coffee talks from all sectors, from women farmer groups to women cuppers to women tasters.

With the involvement of USAID’s Green Invest in 2018, IWCA has now gained momentum after a decade’s work. IWCA conducted studies for women in the coffee sector in the country and internationally through the International Institute for Environment and Development’s (IIED) commissioning to research and write case studies for journals. IWCA Philippines has grown and extended its reach with esteemed international partners such as the ASEAN Coffee Federation, who opened its conference and exhibition doors for IWCA in Cafe Asia in Singapore (March) and in the THAIFEX in Bankok (May).

Truly, the role that women and coffee continue to play together is this: “The mission is not just to upgrade the quality of coffee, but to use it to uplift the lives of the people in the community.”

written by Ann Kuy

Cupping the coffees in the region

“Training the Trainer” courses also helped educate more baristas and coffee producers in all the member countries. And from two years ago, cupping sessions for various ASEAN origins have been held at both shows, encouraging better coffee, especially from small farms or producers.

Training the Trainers led by Justin Metcalf

This year ACF will be holding a coffee auction at the Café Asia event in March at Marina Bay Sands Singapore. Specialty coffees will be sold in limited quantities at premium prices to encourage ASEAN farmers to keep improving their produce.

Symposia and other conference-type events are planned to be held continuously to educate more coffee practitioners. Education about coffees from the region (touted to be the next frontier of coffee) is the main mission of ACF.

ACF is a registered non-profit organization domiciled in Singapore, where its President Victor Mah heads the Singapore Coffee Association (SCA). It is supported by its members which are the primary industry (coffee) organizations in the ten ASEAN member states.

“We must promote ASEAN coffees which are on a par with and sometimes even better than those from faraway places,” says one ACF director.

TURNING PROBLEMS INTO OPPORTUNITIES
I believe this wonderful world can happen, so I traveled to Sultan Kudarat, Bukidnon, Nueva Vizcaya, Cavite, Ifugao, and Kalinga to teach Women in Coffee. Listening to the women’s concerns, I realized that my participants share three common challenges: difficulty in balancing farm and family duties, lack of training, and lack of government support.

I described proper planting to post-harvest processing, showing photos to complement each step. I was encouraged when the participants asked questions because it confirmed their interest to learn.

And while drying equipment and other facilities are needed and should be given by the government, I reminded the women not to rely too much on our public servants. After all, the ones in position also need to verify the women’s needs, and it takes time for the budget to arrive. Some leaders also experienced supplying the much-needed help of their constituents but saw that the resources were not used productively. In the end, time and resources were wasted. 

My father once told me, “Look at the ants. Put something sweet and they will come. You don’t have to call them.” Likewise, I encouraged the women to believe in themselves and have faith in their community too. Opportunities may already be there, like a fellow local who could offer the land or have everyone chip in some money until they can afford the materials and then work together to build the communal facility. The positive attitude of the community works wonders.

I’m happy to see that my participants have applied what they had learned, like Juliet who adjusted the height of her drying beds and started farm tourism, and Carissa who practiced proper post-harvesting.

With my son and my fellow PCBI Director (Andy Mojica) who help me as I trained the women and men of Kalinga

TOGETHER THROUGH COFFEE
When women and men help one another, the next generation sees the transformation. Both are free to ask questions, to listen, and to give advice. There is mutual respect. That is how gender and development changes our lives for the better.

Written by Princess Kumala Sug-Elardo

Jandatu brought us around Upi to see its natural flora, and to nearby Cotabato City to see two cafés. The two cafés, Café Mindanaw and Moro Café, serve Magindanaw and Sulu coffee—ARMM coffee, if you wish, to classify them geographically.

MORO CAFÉ
Located on the grounds of the Office of the Regional Governor, the beautiful building amidst bamboo trees and other greenery is a perfect meeting place for coffee drinkers.

It proudly serves Sulu Royal coffee from Princess Kumala Elardo’s freshly roasted batch as well as fresh juice blends, smoothies, and frappés. 

Moro Café has communal sofa sets and a mezzanine for private meetings. The staff serves freshly-brewed Tausug coffee from the coffee areas in Panamao, Sulu, prepared from a spanking new Italian espresso machine. They also serve pasta and pastries to go with the coffee. 

The lush and verdant setting provides a perfect place for meeting up for business or socials in downtown Cotabato City. 

CAFÉ MINDANAW
This café, proudly subtitled “Books and Brews”, has an interesting book collection for private reading (please return after use) and for sale. I found a nice rare book: A Country of Our Own by Martinez, printed in 2004. They have books on history as well as politics, and on Mindanao and the Moro culture.

Understandably, because the parents of young Hassan Sirimambo are NGO people and civil servants, the book choices and the 1901 Moro photos wall decor speak much about Mindanao. Atty. Naguib, Hassan’s father, works for the peace process, and his mother Roslaini Alonto works with the Regional Department of Trade and Industry (R-DTI). This couple even volunteered and worked for over 30 days in Marawi during its siege, without any thought of reward or compensation.

The coffee tastes good, especially with the conversations we had about Marawi, the peace process, and the history of Mindanao. The offer both a Magindanaw brew and a Mindanao blend.

The café is a good meeting place, even with the 10 p.m. curfew, as the coffee is served with a lot of stories and interesting conversations. I saw two foreigners enjoying their brew as, according to Atty. Naguib, their coffee shop has become some kind of an NGO hub.

Books, brew, and music will make you want to learn more about the history of coffee in Upi and of the people of the Bangsamoro Autonomous Region.

Here’s how you as a consumer can help your favorite café towards sustainable, planet-friendly operations:

1. Use only washable and reusable cups, mugs or latte bowls.
2. Do not use or ask for plastic straws. There are many metal and bamboo straws for sale even in cafés.
3. Drink coffee without sugar or creamer. Drinking coffee the way it is served (black, latte, piccolo, etc.) without adding anything is the eco-friendly way to enjoy your brew. Some people like to add some syrup dispensed from bottles by the barista.
4. Bring a reusable container and ask the café to fill it with your favorite brew. Imagine the paper cup you will avoid using. That helps especially if you drink more than one cup a day.
5. Spent grounds from espresso, latte and other drinks can be given to coffee farms or gardens for aerating the soil and bringing back to Nature the wastes of the coffee she lent us to drink.
6. Avoid using single-use plastic in iced drinks and water-dispensing stations. Bring a cup!

And best of all, use local coffee. It has traveled fewer miles, has helped more farmers to keep planting coffee, and keeps our economy alive!

Go green. Go local. Go Philippine coffee.

written by Pacita Juan / Background vector created by Freepik

MICKAY RUAZOL
Mickay Ruazol is the head barista at Rise Fitness Boutique in Dubai, and last year, she added the title of UAE National Barista Champion to her credentials. The original espresso that she had prepared was from Colombia, a rare cross between red bourbon and typica. With it, the 24-year-old bested sixteen other competitors and earned herself a slot at the World Barista Championship in Boston, USA last April.

She has gone quite a long way, having started her career as a barista only three years ago. She juggled her previous job as in-store trainer for waitstaff with barista training. Curious about what the baristas were doing at the cafe she was working for, she took the opportunity to know more about coffee from her colleagues and be part of training sessions at Gold Box Roastery, Dubai, during her days off. “I didn’t waste my time doing nothing. I feel like I’ve always wanted this,” she says.

And she continues to learn. “The more you know, the more you know you don’t know,” she quotes, so she strives to meet new people who can teach her different things.

“I enjoy tasting coffee, having fun doing cupping and sensory training with my coffee friends,” Ruazon says. As she communicates with people from all over the world to learn more about coffee, she also works on building her communication skills, “so the right information will be passed on.”

To contribute to the industry, she discloses that she is brewing a project which will encourage more women to enter her field. She also has friends in the coffee industry in the Philippines. “We are helping them in terms of coffee beans. In Dubai, we are proudly telling everyone how Philippine coffee is emerging,” Ruazol says.

LABLIBELL BAJARIAS
Lablibell moved to Dubai in 2013. It was while training for her first job at Caffe Divino that she became interested in coffee. Thrilled and amazed by what she had learned, she decided then and there to be a barista. She hones her craft through research, constant practice and daily application of principles she picks up.

The 31-year-old currently works at Nostalgia Al Thanya. To this day, it brings her joy to get a glimpse of customers smiling and enjoying a cup she prepared. “It is very rewarding when they compliment me.”

Bajarias is among the minority of women behind the coffee bar, a circumstance with its own difficulties. “You’ll be underestimated, looked down upon and judged, just because you’re a woman,” she reveals. “The greatest challenge is to prove them wrong.”

And she did just that by taking home the championship trophy from the UAE National Brewers Cup held in December 2018 at the Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Center.

“My unique and flawless presentation on stage was the fruit of my hard work and preparation. Devoting time and effort to practice made me more confident.”

For her final winning entry, she used coffee produced by Jamison Savage and roasted by Tasos from Underdog, a Geisha variety from Finca Deborah. She also used new innovations such as the Lilydrip and a flow restrictor.

According to Bajarias, two months of preparation is sufficient. She went over her routine every day after her shift. “It is stressful yet fun. I made sure I know my coffee, I made sure everything is in place, and I made sure everything is organized,” she says.

She says having a supportive team is a must. She is grateful for her friends, all bemedalled baristas who were with her all the way. “They taught me perseverance and determination in achieving my goals, not only in making the best cup of coffee, but also making the best out of life,” she concludes.

MAI ESON
Mai Eson holds the record for the highest spot in the world barista championship that anyone from the United Arab Emirates has ever occupied. She landed 20th out of 57 contenders. For the competition held in Seoul, Korea in November 2017, she represented The Espresso Lab in Dubai where she continues to be head barista.

For a good chance at winning, she points out that foremost is choosing the right coffee. “It doesn’t have to be very rare and expensive, as long as you have the information about the coffee. Then create a script and a routine where you can express yourself and the coffee you are using,” she recommends.

But it was not until she transferred to Dubai that she realized that the coffee industry has something more to offer. And there’s still a lot of room for new members. “Begin with students. Invite young trainees or students taking up F&B courses to watch throwdowns and similar competitions,” she suggests for growing the community. To allow more women to penetrate the field, she encourages owners to hire baristas based on skills and not gender. “Most women I know are effective in the bar because they are well organized and can maintain a neat workflow,” she says.

Her post behind the bar is only the beginning for the 25-year-old. “I don’t intend to be a barista only. I’m pushing myself to become a better coffee professional who doesn’t only see the visual parameters but also understands what is happening behind the cup.”

VANESSA CACERES
“Knowledge must be shared,” stresses Vanessa Caceres. The Coffee Academics Singapore cafe manager and head barista is generous with her extensive experience from a career that started in 2007.

She has several victories tucked under her belt but her most memorable competition is the All-Stars Female Barista in Bogota, Colombia in 2015, sponsored by World Coffee Events and IWCA. Caceres’ group was hailed champion, and she won the top spot in the Latte Art category.

“We are most alive when we are in love—cliché, but that’s how I feel about being a barista, where I can freely express my creativity and originality,” declares the self-taught 36-year-old.

Aside from being an expert in latte art and pour over, she considers herself a specialist in explaining and educating drinkers about the types of beans and techniques used in coffee preparation. After all, she was a teacher of hospitality management before becoming a barista. “I have mentored more than a dozen, and now they’re all baristas working in Manila and Singapore,” she says. Someday she hopes to open her own barista school or training center in Manila to help potential baristas who cannot take expensive courses.

“We should not doubt ourselves on the things we cannot do. Trying means you are doing; doing means there is progress. Don’t stop learning every day and practice harder,” Vanessa advises those who aspire to get to where she is. “And once you’ve learned the skills, share it with others. Let’s continue forward and uplift each other.”

In the meantime, she extends her reach through social media. She is the Founder of Pinoy Barista on Facebook. The group, which currently has over 2,000 members, seeks to provide recognition to baristas as well as develop the craft. “The group helps baristas find jobs easily,” she says. Caceres is also the administrator of the 33,000-member strong Latte Art Philippines Facebook group, which promotes coffee and latte art and supports baristas around the world.

written by Nana Nadal